Browsing by Author "Holmgren, Therese"

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Gustav III:s dräktreform En fallstudie om nationella dräkten
(2016-06-22) Holmgren, Therese; University of Gothenburg/Department of Conservation; Göteborgs universitet/Institutionen för kulturvård
This study focuses on Gustav III:s costume reform in 1778 with a case study of two preserved costumes in Västergötlands museum. It gives a background to how the costume looked in the 18th century with a connection to the society. During the time of the costume reform there were a lot of problems with smuggling of textiles in Sweden which the reform intended to reduce. The preserved costumes in the case study were measured and drawn up. These drawings were then compared to the patterning of the national costume. The men’s costume was accurate in comparison but the female costume differed in many ways. Because of the differences in the female costume it is constructed as a modified version. Instead of following the patterning of the national costume the female costumes usually followed the fashion instead. The nobility and the middle class were encouraged by the court to wear the new national costume but after Gustav III:s death the use declined and officially concluded in 1823. The case study gives example of two different usages of the national costume with the male costume following the direction as it was worn by a nobleman. The female costume however was lent as a bridal gown in Toarps parish. With the case study and a literary study combined this essay gives an example of how preserved costumes can expand the knowledge of the 18th century costume. By analysing the costumes there usage and their alterations has given an insight to how highly valued costumes once were.
Reconstructing Eighteenth-Century Tailoring: A Qualitative Study of Craft Knowledge
(2022-07-05) Holmgren, Therese; University of Gothenburg/Department of Conservation; Göteborgs universitet/Institutionen för kulturvård
This thesis researches the craft knowledge in eighteenth-century sewing through case studies and reconstructions. With the theoretical framework of experimental archaeology, craft science and object-based research, it was found that reconstructions can be a suitable method to research and document craft knowledge and skills of hand sewing. Two dresses from a museum collection were studied in detail and then reconstructed. They represent both folk dress and fashionable dress, showcasing different materials and construction techniques. Fabrics and materials were chosen to match the originals as close as possible and a pattern was taken from the original for the reconstructions. To explore the tailors craft knowledge and skill, the patterns were changed to fit a specific body. The sewing process was done with the same techniques used on the originals with only hand sewing. The reconstructions were documented in writing of each step of the process, as well as photography and video to capture the embodied skill of the maker. It is important to document the process with the hands visible to show how to hold the needle and fabric to perform the specific stitch. Only documenting the result of the sewing loses the documentation of the embodied skill. To be able to use reconstruction as a research method the craft skill of making is needed, which can be limiting the extent of its use. It is also important to clearly document each step in the research process to make it replicable. Then the reconstructions are set against previous research and literature to research them in a wider a context. The reconstructions in this thesis show a shift in construction techniques, with the traditional techniques in the folk dress and the new techniques used for the new fashion of the turn of the century, in the fashionable dress. The thesis presents a method for using reconstructions within academia and craft science with a critical discussion of the method.