The Mechanical and Supporting Effect of Stitches in Textile Conservation

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to investigate the mechanical and supporting effects of conservation stitches on textile objects. The aim was to better understand what impact different stitch patterns used in textile conservation have on the textiles after long-term storage and exhibition. The study focused on the conservation of silk. A literature review established the most commonly used stitches, threads, and support fabrics for treatments of silk artefacts in Europe and North America. The research compared laid couching and brick couching. Two different lengths of stitch lines were also studied. In total, 46 textile specimens were prepared, of either standard or artefact silk. The specimens were degraded with a horizontal or vertical tear in order to compare the results depending on the different kinds of damage. Thereafter, they were conserved in a similar manner with slight variations to the above-mentioned variables. After treatment, the specimens were subjected to a fixed-load test. By hanging them from a whiteboard using magnets and weighting with 50 g each. The fixed-load test lasted for three weeks. The results were evaluated through measuring the elongation of the specimen and opening of the tear as well as visual evaluation of the stitching from photographs of the specimen. Result showed that most damage was caused to the specimens with a horizontal tear sewn with 20/25 mm long stitch lines of laid couching, and that the specimens with a vertical tear were damaged the least, independent of stitch pattern used.