Ebbas klänning Uppmätning och analys som källa till information i kombination med historisk undersökning

Abstract

This study focuses on costume as a source of information. By making a case study of an 1880's dress it aims to explore the conservators potential as an investigator and conveyor of the information contained in a costume. Further explanation of this role is made by reference to several statements made by well known textile conservators. The paper also explores the different words used to make a new version of a preserved or inexistant garment, gives an extensive presentation of taking patterns and an insight to the other methods used for analysing costumes. The case study consists of an investigation of the dress construction, during which a pattern is taken, and a literature study of the contemporary fashion, the owner of the dress and the maker of the dress. The pattern from the analysed dress will also serve as source for the Hallwyl Museum in the making of a pattern to sell in the museum shop. Further investigation includes analysing of fibres from the 24 different fabrics and trimmings in the dress, using an optical microscope, which shows that only wool, silk and cotton is present in the original material. The complete analysis of the dress, including pattern, construction description, close-up photos of the fabrics and photos of their fibres, is presented in inserts at the end of the paper. During the investigation of the dress a discovery is made that the dress has been enlarged with 7,5cm in each side and under the arms. By comparing the information given by the investigation of the dress a conclusion can be made that the alteration is probably made to make the dress possible to wear as a maternity dress.