Hälsingegårdarnas textila färglandskap Tänkbara kulörer, färgämnen och färgningsmetoder i Hälsingland 1750-1870

Abstract

The purpose of this thesis is to explore the local textile tradition, primarily natural dyes and dyeing techniques used in farmhouses of Hälsingland between 1750- 1870. Issues addressed; why and how were certain organic natural dyestuffs used, which substances were used to create certain colours, and who carried out the dyeing. In the search for knowledge about dyeing, two activities were identified: professional dyeing and home dyeing. To explore these two branches, several historical sources were applied, i.e. literature about dye plants written by scientists, handwritten dyeing manuals for the home, as well as printed manuals for professional/home dyeing. The specific context of farmhouses in Hälsingland created unique socioeconomical preconditions necessary for the development of the dyeing culture. Before 1820, the local professional dye houses were few, up until this time dyeing was mostly carried out at home. Between 1820-1850 several dye houses was established. A correlated assumption from this can be drawn to the decreasing tradition of home dyeing. Results indicate that independently of the context of the dyeing, the origin of the dyestuff was mostly imported and not locally obtained, with a few exceptions. The accessibility and origin of dyestuffs seems to have had an effect on turnout as well. The study show that in the more professionalized settings of the dye houses work was carried out by men, whereas in the domain of the home the work was conducted by women. This in turn could have contributed to the explanation of why that the status of the different methods was regarded differently. The aim is to provide a base for further research. It has been a contribution to the research project Decorated farmhouses of Hälsingland: A holistic study of a world heritage site lead by Dr. Ingalill Nyström.