Evaluating Three Sheer Support Fabrics Attached with Laid - Couching or Adhesive on Double - Sided Textiles by 2D Digital Image Correlation

Abstract

This thesis focuses on the use of sheer mesh fabrics for structural support of holes in double- sided (and occasionally also semi-transparent) textiles. In textile conservation, it is usual to treat structural damages by attaching a newer layer of material to the backside of the object, typically of the same material. When it comes to double-sided textile objects, however, the application of this method would entail covering a part of the object that features significant aesthetic and/or functional attributes. So, this research sought out to find alternatives for this type of treatment using sheer support fabrics. A survey was sent out to understand what strategies are being currently implemented by professionals in these special cases. In addition, 3 different sheer fabrics, silk crepeline, polyester tulle and nylon net, combined with 2 distinct attachment methods; stitching and adhesive treatment were tested. To evaluate and compare each different combination, two tests were conducted. First, cotton mock -up samples with holes were treated with each method and put through a fixed-load test. The progression of the test was monitored using 2D Digital Image Correlation, a method that enabled the determination of the effect of each method on strain and displacement values. Additionally, each method was applied to a lace fragment in order to compare them visually and access their impact on the object. Results showed that choice of sheer fabric made a considerable difference on average strain values and distribution. It was also concluded that, for the most part, conservation stitching was successful in supporting the damaged area, showing lower strain values. Silk crepeline was thematerial showing the lowest strain and displacement values, having an even and consistent progression throughout the fixed-load test. On the other hand, besides experiencing adhesion failure on all tested samples, the nylon net mock-ups showed the most similar behaviour with the untreated control sample. When it comes to visual impact, more testing is needed to produce conclusive results.